Dharavi Linen Shawls

The warp threads—undyed linen yarn sourced from Gujarat’s drought-resistant flax—are stretched on looms built from reclaimed wood and scrap metal. Frames are custom-fitted to space and strength needs, rebuilt as needed, and passed down through weaving households. Threads are hand-soured to reduce static and increase smoothness before threading the loom, a process requiring months of apprenticeship to master tension control.

Indigo vats are prepared in small batches using fermented indigo leaves, lime, and jaggery, reducing chemical use. Fabric is dipped and oxidized repeatedly, achieving soft-to-deep hues without synthetic mordants. After dyeing, the shawls are rinsed in clean water and laid on rooftop drying lines, where sea breeze helps fix the color naturally. Each batch varies slightly in tone, reflecting environmental conditions of the day.

Finished shawls are hand-pressed with wooden mallets to soften the weave and enhance drape, then folded and bundled in jute cloth for transport. Their open weave and light weight make them ideal for Mumbai’s humid climate. Over time, the indigo shifts to a warmer greyish tone with exposure to light and skin contact, becoming more personal with use. They require minimal ironing and can be gently spot-cleaned.